Hi everyone!
My friend and I are heading to the Côte d%26#39;Or next weekend and would like to visit wineries on Friday and Saturday, Oct. 17-18th. We will be staying in Beaune on Friday night but coming from Lyon on Friday morning (as early as necessary). We are quite familiar with the winemaking process and the different terroirs and characteristics of each region, so we are simply looking for wineries to visit in the region based on the merits of the wines themselves. I much prefer visiting small, less known family wineries than the larger producers but definitely want to at least try some Grand Cru wines in the Côte de Nuits. We have a car so are ready to go out of the way for things that are worth the drive. I generally prefer Côte de Nuits to Côte de Beaune but would like to get a good picture of the whole Côte d%26#39;Or. We enjoy big, earthy muscular wines but would also like to try a few which can be drunk in the next 1-2 years.
So any specific suggestions would be greatly appreciated, including your experience and any tips at the winery itself.
Thank you
|||
Firstly, just to warn you that it may be still a little chaotic out there as with their very late (compared to recent years) harvest this year, they are only finishing at the end of this week or early next week ...
The writer on www.winetravelguides.com recommends a range of producers most of whom I would recommend contacting in advance, hence I%26#39;m giving you those with web addresses - in Côte de Beaune (on your way from Lyon) you might want to try:
Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay who makes good Volnay and Pommard 1er Cru - www.joseph-voillot.com
and for whites there is the classic Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet, where you might also be able to arrange lunch with wines - www.olivier-leflaive.com.
For the big red Grands Crus in the Côte de Nuits, try Domaine Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin ... www.domaine-trapet.com and/or Domaine Bertagna in Vougeot - www.domainebertagna.com - the latter has a hotel/restaurant attached and is open, I think without appointment, though you always get a better reception if you make one.
The last few vintages have all been very contrasting so if you can ask - in advance - to taste from 2 or 3 then that will make for an interesting experience. However, I would make it clear that you are not able to buy any, then they can charge if they want and/or they might tell you if they are imported to Canada.
Enjoy your wine travels!
|||
Paul,
Be aware of the difference between tourist wine tasting (Chateaux Mersault) and enthusiast tastings.
Assuming the latter, Maison Champy in Beaune was an exceptional tasting experience, they own many vineyards and buy in grapes from others. They have 50 plus different wines so you should find some rich styles. Officially there is a charge. The tour has some hidden surprises despite all Caves looking the same and along with tasting could take anything from 1-3 hours, you may want to use the spitoon!
Domaine Tollot-Beaut is a gem, in the middle of Chorey Les Beaune village about 3 miles north of Beaune. Its a medium sized wine house, family owned and the wines are full flavoured but still afordable (2006 Corton Grand Crus 43-63 euros). The Cave and bottling plant seem to blend into a residential street in Chorey and you could easly drive past, industrial lifts take you to huge caves going back under most of the village. No charge but polite to buy a few bottles.
Both places speak excellent English although introductions in French are appreciated. You must book ahead any time but especially now because of harvest.
No one mentions this but don%26#39;t read Wine Spectator or Decanter magazine and expect the wine houses to stock a 2005. The best wine are sold before they%26#39;re bottled, at the vineyards you%26#39;re tasting and buying 2006/7 wines and trying to imagine what they%26#39;re like in 5-10 years time (frustrating!!!!)
Email me if you want any contacts
James
|||
Just a few miles from Beaune you will find the wine village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, one of our favorite appellations. There is a good-sized château tasting room right off the main road through the village in the direction of Bouilland.
|||
%26lt;%26lt;www.olivier-leflaive.com%26gt;%26gt;
I second this suggestion for a dejeuner degustation. You may also want to talk to them beforehand to see if they%26#39;ll take you out for a walk or tour of their vineyards too after lunch. The vineyards are just around the corner. You%26#39;ll be well buzzed by then and should pass the time anyway without getting back on the road right away.
|||
So we returned from our VERY brief (much too short) 2-day visit of Burgundy yesterday and had an exceptional time, thanks mostly to the great suggestions above. I will give just a summary of producers/sites we visited and our opinions; if you want more information on any of the visits, don%26#39;t hesitate to message me.
Domaine Tollot-Beaut - Excellent wines and unbelievable hospitality to match. Good prices for the quality. Make an appointment (free tasting)
Domaine Olivier Leflaive - Had the Dejeuner Degustation (lunch tasting). Although pricy, absolutely worth it, wonderful experience, phenomenal and complex white wines, great prices and helpful, knowledgeable, fun staff. Olivier himself came by our table and talked to us for about 5 minutes since we were early.
Maison Champy - Unfortunately had a scheduling conflict and couldn%26#39;t take us despite our appointment. Their huge, broad selection of renowned wines and very good prices made this a big disappointment. Especially important to make a reservation.
Domaine Bertagna - Very good wines from wide variety of plots spanning the Cote d%26#39;Or (didn%26#39;t get to taste any Grand Cru though). After she realized we were quite informed and interested in all aspects of the wine, the hostess was much happier and more helpful (free tasting).
Domaine Michel Voarick - In Aloxe-Corton, visited because Mischief and Mayhem were closed on Saturday and this was pretty much a few feet away. Probably the best surprise of the trip, everything was exceptional, especially the 2001 Pernand-Vergelesses, probably the most interesting village wine we tasted and great prices on everything, including their Grand Crus. No appointment necessary to taste (free tasting).
Domaine Arnelle and Bernard Rion - Very interesting place, very nice selection of wines and great prices, small family-owned operation (in size only, quite large production for a winemaker whose caves are the basement of the family house). Also sell truffles, both fresh and stored in Cognac. Very nice and happy to discuss things. We didn%26#39;t have an appointment and they were happy to receive us, but due to the family nature, probably best to reserve (free tasting)
Domaine Philippe Leclerc - Very cool tasting room and free tastings, but most of the wine was thin, astringent and disappointing (strange that one of the thin, astringent wines was 2003, a year noted for its heaviness due to dryness and heat). No appointment necessary but quite busy as it is directly in the center of Gevrey-Chambertin beside the tourist office. The only tasting where we didn%26#39;t buy any bottles.
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze - Very nice and accommodating (the owner%26#39;s wife spoke with us for about 20 minutes about their wines and their international sales) but stock is so low that they can%26#39;t offer tastings - we took their price-list and only 3 of the 13 wines they made in 2006 are still available: their Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru, Gevrey-Chambertin (village) and their Bourgogne Rose. Too bad. Seemed willing to offer free tasting if she had the product.
The Imaginarium - Despite its funny name (I though it was some sort of kid%26#39;s museum when I saw the name), this site in Nuits-St-George is a facility at least partly-owned by Jean-Claude Boisset (who doesn%26#39;t offer tastings at the domaine, at least without appointment) meant to promote sparkling Burgundy wines. Free tastings of Louis Bouillot sparklers and a large selection of French (not just Burgundian) wines, sparkling and still, for sale at prices comparable to direct from the producers, including those from Jean-Claude Boisset. Worth a visit if you have the time.
We also visited a few caves and wine bars in Beaune; overall they are very over-priced. You can have the chance to taste wines by the glass from producers you didn%26#39;t get the chance to visit, but in most cases they are very expensive for 1er and Grand Cru wines. One place, which I believe was called Magnum, was quite nice; we had a glass, which was pretty much filled to the rim (although that made it tough to enjoy fully), of Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (don%26#39;t remember the producer) for 9 euros, which was excellent value compared to most other wine bars, which either only seemed to be offering village wines for 5-6 euros/glass or much more for 1er and Grand Cru (at one place, I had a Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru from a producer I had never heard of for 16 euros, and got about half the quantity as I did at Magnum). A few places, including Magnum, had a large selection of old vintage wines (some in Magnum dated to the 1920s) from all over France. Most weren%26#39;t top growths and were probably past their primes, but still interesting to see. Take home message is visit the producers themselves unless desperate (of course, not many producers are open at 7pm).
Finally on Friday night we had dinner in Beaune at La Ciboulette (suggested and booked for us by Natahlie Tollot from Tollot-Beaut). Great prices on food and wine. They had Chanson Aloxe-Corton 2005 by the glass for 6 euros, which was cheaper than by the bottle. The food was delicious and was 20 euros for a good menu with great selection, or 26 euros for a second menu. We both got the one for 20 euros and were both completely satisified.
Despite quite a whirlwind tour (we drove from Lyon on Friday morning and left the region around 5pm on Saturday) we accomplished quite a bit. So any additional questions, feel free to message.
|||
I am also interested in a few wine tastings and am interested in your opinions of where you visited. You managed quite a few places, are they close by or did you have to travel far to reach each one. Did you have to make appointments very far in advance and how did you manage to drink the wine and drive unless of course you spat it out. We are no wine buffs but we don%26#39;t mind a good drop so if my questions seem a bit odd, please forgive. My husband would love to wine taste but he is also driving and I understand that drinking and driving in France is not advised. Thank you.
|||
ChemistPaul - glad you had a good time - great report. And it%26#39;s true with many visits that if you show some knowledge and ask interesting questions, the visit and hospitality can improve no end.
HenryandLily - a lot depends on what time of year you plan to visit as to how far in advance you have to reserve visits. Late June - September are pretty busy but the rest of the time a few days in advance will ensure they might remember the appointment (not always the case in France).
Distances are not big in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits and you have far more flexibility if you drive. If one of you can practice the art of spitting, this is by far the best way of tasting wine, then you can drive as you will only absorb a little alcohol. Spittoons are nearly always visible in tastings rooms, if not, just ask for one (the word is crachoir in French). No decent producer would be offended.
|||
Holy Moly. How did you do so much in two days?!!
I saved your post because I%26#39;ll want to try some of the others the next time I%26#39;m out that way.
|||
%26quot;If one of you can practice the art of spitting%26quot;
Spitting is not normally a hard thing for me to do. But some of this Bourgogne stuff is so wonderful, it seems a crime to spit anyout.
Would you spit out Chateauneuf du Pape 1952?
|||
lol Darth, if you find a place that is tasting 1952 Chateauneuf, let me know, I%26#39;ll be on my way!
No comments:
Post a Comment